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FLIGHT
CONTROLS
I have been doing this work for the last eight years. I
have learned and borrowed a lot of techniques for achieving
extremely nice results. Many of these are trade secrets,
and I won't be revealing them here, but, obviously, the
right tool for the job is no secret. That is where we will
start.
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Beaver Flap
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Cessna Flap
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The right
tools for the job, of flight controls include fixtures,
correct size rivet guns, good selection of bucking bars,
drills of different sizes and speeds, pneumatic rivet squeezers,
rivet shavers, and, of coarse, a "Bag-O-Tricks."
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Beaver Aileron
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Cessna Aileron
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Trying to assemble a flight control without a
fixture is like trying to "wrestle a noodle". I never
liked being a "noodle wrestler". That is why I became
a machinist, so I could make good efficient fixtures to tight
tolerances. A properly shaped but internally over-stressed flight
control will work for a while. But those stresses will eventually
relieve themselves, in the form of cracks. By using a proper
fixture, the internal stresses will be minimized because the
pivots will all be properly aligned with each other. The trailing
edge will be properly aligned with the pivots and the control
will fit the airplane. A well designed trailing edge support
along with a rivet squeezer, will make trailing edges that are
straight as an arrow and avoid the "potato chip look."
This will also avoid more internal stresses.
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Previously, I used universal fixtures but these were a frustration
to me because they were "Jack of all, master of none."
I now make a fixture for each application. This takes a
bit more time at first, but it is extremely nice, because
once it is adjusted, it is adjusted forever. This is extremely
efficient over the long run. Another bonus is that if I
have to wait on parts, my whole operation does not grind
to a stop.
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We disassemble, clean, inspect, and prime the parts prior
to assembly for maximum corrosion resistance. And to protect
from dissimilar metal corrosion with the lead counter weights,
we use a thin coat of polysulfide rubberized calk. This
helps keep the lead and aluminum from swapping electrons
which rots the aluminum.
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